I
had a girlie weekend planned. However, rather than packing the heels,
lipstick and vodka, I would be packing my trail shoes, ultra vest and
crème eggs and heading up to the Peak District to meet up with Sarah
A and Anna.
We
hadn't met more than twice ... and we were going to all stay together
for a weekend in the mountains with the locals. Yes, it does sound a
bit Deliverance. You can practically hear the banjos.
Sarah
A was a super-quick running buddy I’d met at the Runners World
Asics 26.2 bootcamp and who I shared camp with at Thunder Run 2013.
Anna was a speedy friend from running club, but she’d moved house
and I’d moved clubs and we hadn’t seen each other for 2 years.
And Anna and Sarah had never met.
But
we shared a few things: A love of wine. Proud parents of multiple
pairs of trainers. Running circles on a track was our idea of hell …
and running mountains in the rain sounded like our idea of a PROPER
girlie weekend.
A
plan was hatched.
3
Mountains and 25 miles of running … within 8 hours.
We
stayed over in the Seed Hill Guesthouse which was welcoming and
friendly. They offered a brilliant cooked breakfast but I
regretfully declined the offer of sausages, thick bacon, mushrooms
and eggs knowing that seeing it again halfway up a mountain –
probably with the wind blowing it back into my face – wouldn’t
be a highlight of the day. Sensibly I went for porridge and cheered
myself up with the thought of the ridiculous amounts of snacks I’d
packed into my running vest to eat on the way.
The
car parks were full but there was a field down the road with an
honesty box. Honesty box? I honestly didn’t want to pay for parking
in a field but put a couple of quid in thinking that if I was a
couple of quid short of my massive fry up at the end of a run, then
I’d be back here with a knife trying to hook them back out again.
As
is law when attempting the Yorkshire 3 Peaks loop, we started at the
Pen-Y-Ghent cafe in Horton-in-Ribblesdale. We clocked in using the
old fashioned clocking-in machine which stamped our cards with the
time and a satisfying ‘clunk’ noise.
We
passed our stamped cards over the counter, ran to the door ... and
ground to a halt. And stood outside under the porch waiting for the
torrential rain to ease. There’s getting a good time and then
there’s getting really wet. And we’re girls.
It
didn’t seem to be stopping. The postman’s red van sped down the
road, splashing a tidal wave of water up the pavements. Why did we
choose this weekend to run mountains?
We
waited 5 minutes for the rain to ease – or at least look slightly
less torrential - but it didn’t. Not even one foot on the path and
I was already regretting my decision to go with the splash proof
jacket rather than the waterproof one. Oh well. It seemed Drenched
Rat was to be the look of the day. I’d just have to run harder to
stay warm.
However,
the rain DID stop halfway up the first mountain. It turned into
hailstones. As they bounced off my nose and pinged off my shoulders I
consoled myself with the thought that at least I wasn’t getting any
wetter.
As
we ran up the slopes of Pen-y-Ghent, the wind was actually whistling.
Whistling properly. It couldn’t hold a tune as well as the milkman
but when I’m halfway up a mountain and the wind is whistling,
that’s when I know I’m doing proper running.
But
there did seem to be an awful lot of UP. But I consoled myself with
the thought that there was probably a good downhill on the other
side. Or failing that, at least a pub at the bottom.
There’s
a small amount of climbing to get to the top and up to the trig
point. Once there, we posed for a quick photo before starting the run
down the other side of the mountain.
Anna
told us in no uncertain terms that we weren’t running fast enough
down the mountain by showing us how to do it. This involved throwing
yourself down the steepest side and waving your legs at the ground
disappearing beneath you until some contact was made, at which point
you threw yourself off again. Sarah and I watched, very impressed and
completely unable to keep up. Anna, running hard, threw herself
gracefully down a steep slope before promptly ballerina-ing herself
into a bog.
She
picked herself up, brushed the mud off of her arse, started running
and quickly gained all her previous momentum back again. So that's
how you do it, I thought. Looks like fun. Apart from the bog bit.
And besides if I fall over and roll all the way to the bottom, it’ll
probably be quicker than running down anyway. Using Anna’s
technique of throwing myself downwards, I quickly got enough speed up
that my eyes were watering (or possibly I was wetting myself in
terror and the speed was forcing the urine upwards).
We
were passing walkers and hikers in a blur and they stared as we went
past. I’m hoping they thought we were awesome, but they were
probably hoping for comedy and more ‘falling-into-bog’ moments.
“This is BRILLIANT!!!” I screamed as I ran past trying to justify
our suicidal descending methods. One screamed back “You’ll kill
yourselves”. Gathering enough breath I shouted “We have a doctor
with us!” And pointed back at Sarah who was demonstrating her faith
in the local NHS hospitals by following with just as much speed and
craziness.
Breathless
and laughing we got to the stone wall and looked up at the mountain
we had just fall-run-leapt down. That was brilliant. And we have 2
more mountains to practise that on.
We
trotted on, keeping the pace steady, passing the occasional shaggy
sheep and dry stone wall. The route had been neatened recently. The
paths are now no longer black lines cutting across the grass, but
cinder paths. The Yorkshire 3 Peaks has been tidied up and tamed.
It’s still a trail run but not grass and stones and mud, but neat
cinder paths and gravel and large flat stones. I can understand why
as many thousands of people walk and run it every year and the paths
had zigzagged and wound across the fields and probably caused damage.
It’s better for the land, but not so fun to run.
However,
despite this there was still mud. Significant amounts. Overtaking a
group of lads and watching one in a most unsuitable – and
unattractive – pair of flesh coloured trousers slip and land on
his arse, I couldn’t resist a small smirk at his misfortune and
the decoration of his legwear. They were a much better colour with
the addition of the mud and his girly scream cheered us all up.
However
schadenfreude and my resulting smirk were too much for karma and
deciding enough was enough, karma kicked me in the arse ... and I
managed a beautiful splat straight into the smelly mud. I’d like to
claim it was graceful, balletic and controlled. It was not. With
flailing string-cut-puppet arms, I’d managed to twist as I fell to
gain maximum mud coverage. I looked like half a chocolate Santa.
Mud
was in my mouth, in my ear, up my legs, all over my hands, in my
pockets and bizarrely INSIDE my vest. I looked exactly like a smug
twat who’d fallen over in the mud because she’d been smirking at
someone else who’d just fallen over in the mud. I’d also managed
to knock my knee on a stone at the same time. I walked a few steps to
test it, it wasn’t too bad and we were soon running again, leaving
behind the mud and the yelps of the lad in the flesh-coloured
trousers as he fell over again.
Whernside
The
distance between Pen-Y-Ghent and the road to the viaduct, which
usually seems to take so long, disappeared in a blink of mud,
running, good conversation and snacks. Bizarrely Anna had seen one of
her uni friends enroute who had also chosen today to do the 3 Peaks
proving that you really can’t go anywhere without seeing someone
you know. We stopped at the main road for Sarah A to change her
jacket and pull all the buckles off of her running pack and I got a
breather and some snacks scoffed while she tried to work out the
puzzle of how to reattach all her straps.
There
was a mile or so of running on a twisting road, where we had to run
single file to avoid the cars and the red postman’s van which
swerved confidently around the corners avoiding, walkers, runners and
the occasional lost sheep. The road was easy running despite our
trail shoes and we soon came to the foot of the viaduct at Ribblehead
which seemed to stretch for miles, high and portentous, leading
towards Whernside, our second mountain.
The
weather was warm now and we’d left the rain and hailstones far
behind us. The skies were heavy, black and ponderous but for now the
sun was shining and we had mountains to run.
But
first ... a selfie in front of the viaduct. However we hit a snag,
none of our arms were long enough to fit all three of us into the
photo without some sort of acrobatic feat or Stretch Armstrong style
elasticity. We accosted a lady and her husband to take a photo of us.
She seemed a little reluctant to accept my phone for the photo
taking, then I realised the phone was still full of mud and she was
being asked to take a photograph by what must have appeared to be
some sort of bog monster. I brushed myself and the phone off as best
as before posing for a pic.
She
still appeared a little confused but we stood in a row and smiled
dutifully as she counted loudly to let us know when she was pressing
the shutter button. We thanked her and continued onwards, not
realising until later that evening that she had in fact pressed the
video button and we had a lovely video of her counting while telling
her husband off for offering his advice and opinion on her
photographic skills.
With
unerring judgement, Sarah A decided she needed a wee just as we were
in the middle of the busiest point on the route. However, when you
have to go you have to go. And there’s no arguing with a bladder.
She
found a railway tunnel which seemed to offer seclusion but then
spotted a group of people on a hill opposite. With binoculars.
You
don’t realise how many people are around until you need solitude
for a wee.
Slightly
put off, Sarah A managed another half a mile run-stagger before
deciding she couldn’t wait and she would hop behind the dry stone
wall lining the path. She waited until the path was as clear as it
could be on a path full of assorted hikers, runners and walkers.
Finally it was just us and an old man ambling up the path. She hopped
over the wall and just touched the top stone ... which fell ... then
dislodged a few others and they knocked a few others which started a
stone wall avalanche. The path which had been empty was now full of
people again whose focus was on the stone wall being noisily
demolished. And the person having a wee behind it. Eventually, the
rumbling stopped and the dust cleared and Sarah - embarrassed but
bladder relived – clambered out from behind the pile of stones. The
old man sniggered.
I
always find Whernside the toughest mountain of the Yorkshire Three
Peaks. You’ve got about 3 miles of just crawling uphill. Not steep
enough to climb, but just steep enough to be really uncomfortable on
your calves and knees as you run. It’s a soul-sapping,
boredom-filled slog, most of the way paved with stone slabs slippery
in the now-constant rain. I hunched my shoulders against the cold and
tried to speed up to stay warm. We were alternating walking and
running as the slipperiness of the slabs and the numbers of people on
the path meant we had to keep stopping and starting. However, we got
a bit of a kick up our collective backsides as we were overtaken by a
couple of men running strongly who were hopping on and off the path
onto the sodden boggy sides to avoid the plodding walkers. We looked
at each other and sped up. We’d been using the slowness of the
walkers and the weather to take a breather.
Overtaking
the walkers, I was surprised how many were wearing headphones or just
blasting out music from phone speakers. The weather was pretty
rubbish, but it seemed mad that they were choosing to climb (well …
walk) up a mountain but only getting half of the experience. They
were missing out by blocking out the sound of the birds and the wind
– and the ‘excuse me’ of someone trying to pass them safely -
using the anaesthetic of crappy music.
I
can only assume that they had been FORCED to come out here today and
had to block out the misery of being forced away from the latest soap
episode or BGT by blasting pop music into their ears.
Maybe
I had it all wrong and they were listening to an audio commentary of
interesting things to look out for on Whernside. But I doubted it.
However, even the Music Zombies these were better than the Stabby
Walkers. People who came out with walking poles but unable to use
them or unsure how, they tucked them under their arms or waved them
around like they were fencing with an invisible assailant.
Each
of us had a near miss with someone waving poles around. My narrow
escape was by walking behind someone who was throwing their poles out
behind them with each stride as though attempting to skewer something
creeping up behind him. A sneaky axe murderer possibly. Or a
distracted runner muttering about Music Zombies.
Most
people were friendly and let us pass safely – some even gave us a
clap or a “well done” for running up the mountains they were
walking, although of course there are always a few who don’t want
to move and block the path deliberately. We were always courteous
though and only passed where it was safe and easy to do so.
Soon,
the slog turned into a steeper climb and as we came closer to the
summit of Whernside, there was thick cloud cover but no real wind.
There was about 25m visibility so you could see 2 or 3 people in
front of you but not much more. The path wasn’t so wide here but
it was smooth dirt and jutting stones so run-able despite the low
visibility.
As
the path narrowed, I kept the wall and the fence on my right and just
powered upwards, Anna and Sarah somewhere behind me in the mist. The
path was too tight to stay side-by-side so I concentrated on just
keeping my head down and getting to the top. The wall at the summit
of Whernside is solid and has a narrow gap in it you have to squeeze
through to reach the trig point. I think I’m fairly slim but I
struggled to squeeze through and blamed my short legs, maybe the
taller hikers could just squeeze their legs through rather than half
their bodies.
I
touched the trig point and re-crossed the wall and crouched in the
shelter of it munching my way through the yoghurt covered bananas
while waiting for the others to turn up. The reason long distance
runners wear packs isn’t for water and important ultra-runner
things but for the snacks. Snacks are one of the big reasons I run.
More miles = more snacks. And I love a good snack.
Sarah
and Anna arrived and we all posed for a damp and foggy photo next to
the trig point before we headed downwards. This wasn’t as fun as
Pen-y-Ghent as the paths were flinty and rocky with sharp stones so
you had to watch your step. A false step could mean a broken ankle or
a gashed leg. The stones moved underfoot and as we descended the
steepness increased. I kept turning my left ankle over and what felt
like electric shocks ran up my leg every time this happened. Ouch.
Anna
started speeding up, frustrated by the slow progress and I followed
her lead. I didn’t slog up and up and up that long, slow climb to
pick my way down here like an old lady. I let my feet go and soon we
were dashing down the side of the mountain. Luckily my sense of
self-preservation seemed to be guiding my feet and I made it to the
dry stone wall at the bottom, uninjured and still on my feet. Just.
The
next mile was mainly downhill and we passed fields and farmlands and
an occasional conifer plantation as we moved down into the valley
between mountains. The rain had started again but the sheep in the
fields were unworried and continued eating the grass. A small group
of lambs however were all seeking cover under an unhitched trailer,
bleating and staring out at us running in the rain as though we were
mad. I could see their point. I’d quite like to sit under the
shelter of a trailer for a moment eating a crème egg out of the
rain.
We
made it over the cattle grids and back onto a farm lane. We were
passed by yet another postman’s van, thinking as it disappeared
around a corner of the lane how many miles we could have saved our
legs by hitching a lift in the back among the letters and parcels.
Ingleborough
The
downhill running didn’t last long and soon our path was doing what
a race description would describe as ‘undulating’. We crossed yet
another cattle grid and ran onto the main road, up the incline and
past the Hill Inn. We ground to a halt at the only access onto the
path, as what looked like a neverending procession of soaking wet
hikers climbed over the stile in front of us like clowns climbing out
of a tiny car.
The
rain at this point was best described as torrential, the wind
horizontal and just to be unfair there were a few hailstones as well.
One buff – tied around my head - was freezing cold, wet and blowing
against my face. The other was freezing cold, wet and round my neck.
I was ROCKING the cold, damp granny look. My jacket was soaked
through, my face was grumpy and worst of all I was running out of
snacks.
The
others didn’t look much drier or happier than me. But on the plus
side, the rain was washing some of the mud off.
I
wasn’t enjoying this part at all. But at least we were running
fast. Although this was mainly as it was too damn cold to walk and
the quicker we ran, the quicker we would be on the outside of a bacon
sandwich and a bucket of coffee.
I
thought longingly of the waterproof jacket I’d left on my bed at
the B&B. Fat lot of good it was doing me there. Before setting
out, I just couldn’t choose what to wear. I’d packed and unpacked
the waterproof jacket several times and finally decided against it,
going with my splashproof lighter weight jacket instead. I’d
reasoned that as we would be running, our body temperatures should
stay reasonably high and should my lighter jacket get wet it would
probably dry out between mountains. At the very worst, I’d only be
cold for a few hours. This theory had worked well until this point.
I’d even had to undo the jacket between the first two mountains and
had resisted the urge to take it off and stow it in the pack as
didn’t want to waste time. But I was glad of the long tights I was
wearing and most definitely didn’t envy Anna in her shorts.
The
foothills of Ingleborough were steep and rolling and a section of the
path was a boardwalk which stretched across the sodden ground. Our
trail shoes clattered as we ran on it. In the dips between the hills,
the air temperature was warmer and the wind dropped and it was almost
pleasant but soon we were at the foot of Ingleborough staring up at
the sheer mountainside against which the path zigzagged.
I’d
lent my gloves but had to ask for them back. My hands were so cold
that touching the rocks to aid my climb gave an unpleasant electric
shock sensation. The first section of the climb is steep and
unrunnable (at least for us and with hikers in the way) and dripping
with water. Climbing slowly, steadily higher, inching upwards, I felt
like an insect crawling on the face of the mountain. Insignificant
and tiny. Making infinitesimal progress towards the summit high
above.
Soon
we were onto the climb proper and there was a fair amount of water
washing down the rocks making the progress difficult and hands
colder. We reached the fence above and passed through the stile and
onto the first false peak of the mountain. A climb again, the wind
stronger now, we kept close to the mountainside , we didn’t want
our tiredness to cause us to stumble or slip in the wrong direction.
Clambering
up the last rocks, we came to the sloping plateau on the top of
Ingleborough. It was too foggy to see anything further than 10m
away, the fog deadened our voices and the stones on the ground made
strange shapes, cairns suddenly appearing out of the whiteness.
A
voice called out to us. A lost man and wife team had walked from
Clapham and couldn’t find their way back. I directed them back the
way we came up the mountainside and offered our map but they wanted
to find the way directly back to their village. There were people
coming up behind us I reassured them that maybe they’d know the
way. Clapham? I hope that’s a local village or they’ve got a hell
of a walk back to London.
Moving
off into the fog, we estimated where we thought the trig point would
be and set off in search of it as fast as we could. My legs didn’t
want to run but the sooner we found the trig point, the sooner we
could be heading back to warmth. No-one else seemed to be up here
but us. It was spooky and a bit otherworldly. There was no sign of
the views I’d had last time. No chance of seeing the Ribblehead
viaduct or the other mountains. We couldn’t even see the trig
point.
Then
finally “It’s here!” We stumbled towards it, freezing cold and
just glad to have found it as it meant we could get the hell down off
the mountain. Unlike the other mountains, there was no-one around to
take the photo. My phone wouldn’t respond to take the pictures and
my freezing, fumbling fingers didn’t want to operate either. I took
a photo of Sarah and Anna, then we swapped over and a photo was taken
of me. I tried to smile but it didn’t work. I just wanted down.
It’s
not my best picture. I look like a Granny who’s one number short at
bingo when some other hag screams “house!”.
We
ran back the way we thought we’d come but ran too far and were met
by a sheer drop. We realised our mistake and picked our way back and
spotted the way down and were soon met with the welcome sight of the
cairn. One path leading back towards Whernside, but forking the other
direction, our path leading towards Horton-in-Ribblesdale, a warm
cafe, food and 5 final miles of mainly downhill running.
It’s
amazing how your mood lifts when you’re on the home stretch.
Running down the path away from Ingleborough, my legs felt good.
There was some pain but it was a good pain. My legs were tired, but
it was a GOOD tired. A hard won tired. No injuries or niggles.
Anna
cheered us up with her constant talk of a cup of tea. No dreams for
her of a bacon sandwich or a nice fry up. She just wanted a hot cup
of tea. As we ran further and further, the cup of tea in her vision
got bigger and bigger. At this rate she was going to have to stir it
with an oar.
The
path down was slippery with rain and mud and sections were flooded.
At several points we had to stop and pick our way through and try to
find an alternative route. The path had sections which were in a deep
dip. This didn’t help with the flooding and we wound our way up and
down the sides trying to find a safe path. There were several slips
and trips but none serious, just irritating as each were keeping us
from our destination.
At
mile 23 the path was very flooded and we couldn’t find a safe way
through. We scrambled up the bank and found a clear path, smooth and
straight running along the top of the bank. We followed this for half
a mile until it terminated at a stone wall and we made our way back
down to the flooded path. Falling down the bank I managed to regain
the mud the earlier torrential rain had washed off.
As
we came up to the signpost, I glanced to my right and found I was
hallucinating teepees. I blinked. Nope. Not a hallucination. There
really WAS a man in a tepee drinking tea. I raised my to him. He
waved back. Bastard didn’t offer me a cup of tea though.
We
followed the signpost and towards the rooftops we could see in the
distance. We were surrounded by rolling green hillsides now and we
knew we were close. Following the path up the side of the hill and
across a slanting field to a gate, we crossed railway tracks and ran
down a steep slope into the village of Horton-in-Ribblesdale.
Onto
roads, the treads on our shoes clacking and mud falling from them,
running down the hill, past the field with the car, over the bridge,
through the car park and on past the row of houses.
Until
at last ... the Pen-y-Ghent Cafe. A bowl of chips and a bucket of
tea.
|
My stamped time card |
Summary
Time: 5 hours 47.
Distance: 24.43 miles
Elevation Gain: 4,571 ft
A
few strange facts:
- The
3 Yorkshire 3 Peaks is a famous fell race. The 1st placed lady Victoria
Wilkinson this year did so in 3hrs 21!! (Our route
was slightly different as the runners take a more direct route but
that is an ASTOUNDING time!!)
- We
stayed at the Seed Hill Guesthouse in Ingleton where they do the BEST
cooked breakfast with amazing thick bacon. There is a peacock that
lives in the village and roosts in a tree there at night. One day
about 10 years ago it suddenly appeared in the village and has stayed
ever since. It originally came with its mate but she was knocked down
by a quarry truck a few years ago. The peacock calls for her every
evening.
- We
kept seeing discarded socks along the route. We decided that they
were probably down to someone being caught short without loo roll.
Any better explanations?
- We
are already wondering how much we’d be able to knock off in better
weather and taking the more direct route ...
- My
legs didn’t work properly for a week and the rest of me felt as
though I’d been hit by a truck. Plus my
hands swelled up immediately after the run. No idea why. Trying to drink my coffee was like trying to pick the cup up with fat pink sausages for fingers.
- Anna
is in remission for MG which stands for Myasthenia gravis. This is an
autoimmune neuromuscular disease leading to fluctuating muscle
weakness and fatigue so her achievement in running the Yorkshire 3
Peaks is doubly amazing AND she's doing 9 more crazy things this year! Please will you visit her page even if you
don’t donate ... just to raise awareness of MG. It's here.
Anyone fancy giving the Yorkshire 3 Peaks a go? I'd love to have another go at running it in better weather!